Confederate Uniform Guidelines & Recommendations

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The uniform requirements are aimed at supporting the event's goals: 1. Depicting Johnson's Brigade as it existed at the time of the battle in the spring of 1862; 2. Interpreting the history of that time for spectators and for ourselves, using ongoing first-person as a key technique. That will include actively soldiering as the original troops did -- your uniform and equipment needs to be as functional as their's was. 3. Serving as an introductory event for reenactors whose past experiences may not have included events that attempt to recreate much more than just the battles.

Introductory Statement

These uniform guidelines are presented to assist our Confederate participants in assembling and fine tuning their clothing and gear for the upcoming McDowell-2005 event.   If followed carefully, and with a minimal expenditure of funds, we can assure you that you will have assembled a top-notch portrayal of a member of Jackson’s command during the 1861 through late 1862 period.

We would like our Confederate participants to attempt to comply with these guidelines in as many ways possible, however it is understood that not every single point can, or will, be met by every attendee.  However, if you read these recommendations with an open mind, we think you may be pleasantly surprised as to how many of the specific points embodied herein most campaign/progressive Confederate reenactors CAN comply with!  In essence, that is all we can ask.

Most importantly, it should be understood that the RULES regarding this event’s minimum standards are as set forth in the registration section of the website.  Please keep in mind, what follows here are not rules, but guidelines, and should be approached as such.

Guiding Portrayal for the Event: Johnson's Brigade, specifically the 12th Georgia, 25th Virginia and 31st Virginia regiments.

Johnson's Command had been guarding the Parkersburg-Staunton Pike at “Fort Johnson” (Fort Allegheny), west of Monterey Virginia.  Forced to abandon Fort Allegheny in spring of 1862, they will eventually fall back to Shenandoah Mountain, where they entrench along the Pike.  Johnson’s troops are flanked at Shenandoah Mountain by Milroy’s Brigade (25th Ohio, 32nd Ohio, 73d Ohio, 75th Ohio, 2nd WV, and 3rd WV) and fall back to Buffalo Gap, only 6 miles west of Staunton. 

When Jackson's Brigade arrives, the Confederates become the pursuers as Milroy’s Federals are forced to fall back before superior Confederate numbers.  The two brigades will engage in a sharp skirmish at Rodger’s Toll Booth, where, although the Federals claim to have “fought gallantly”, they abandon “an enormous quantity of supplies and equipment” to the Confederates and continue to fall back towards McDowell.  Twenty Federals of the 32nd Ohio are captured.  Johnson’s troops thoroughly ransack the Federal baggage, supplying themselves with equipment, food and ammunition.  Jackson’s troops will camp at Headwaters, VA, where they will leave their knapsacks, excess baggage, artillery, and supply wagons.  The two armies will eventually meet on Sitlington’s Hill, a spur of Bullpasture Mountain overlooking the Village of McDowell, with Johnson’s Brigade and Jackson’s Third Brigade the principal participants on the Confederate side.

 

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View in Grafton, Virginia (now WV), a typical Allegheny Highlands town, which provides some good examples of small town and rural clothing in the era.   Photograph from "Images of West Virginia in the Civil War, Lowry and Cohen, Quarrier Press, 2000.")

Uniforms:

It is impossible to say with any certainty the exact nature of the clothing being worn by Jackson's regiments during the McDowell Campaign. However, it appears that Jackson's men must have been fairly well dressed and equipped compared to their brethen serving under Johnson.

Nonetheless, during the "Commutation era" before the depot system was established, a wide variety of uniform styles were seen. While uniforms may have been contracted for from private tailors on a regimental or (more usually) company-by-company basis, they might also have been supplied, as in early war, by local ladies aid societies, or made by the soldier's own family, as during this time period soldiers received a stipend for providing clothing. As soldiers' pay was so low and many were in economic need, many would simply spend this money and wear civilian clothing from home. The unforms remarked upon by their colleagues would have been somewhat the worse for wear as a month of hard marching, poor weather, muddy, rocky roads, and inadequate supply conditions may have rendered some of the Confederate troops' clothing and gear “unserviceable”. However, the men apparently had received new clothing approximately one month before McDowell, their clothing was undoubtedly dirty and well-worn, but not actually ragged.

Although we have no specific information as to the early war appearance of these regiments, we can infer from our general knowledge of Virginia troops during this time period the following:

(Typical commutation-style jacket, similar to the Jenkins Jacket.  From "More Confederate Faces, Broadfoot Publ. 1993") Click for larger image

1. Jackets - This is the period of the so-called “commutation uniform” (uniforms that were provided for the soldiers by private purchase, funds provided by the soldiers themselves, their company officers, or benefactors from the community).  Probably one of the best examples of a private purchase uniform from this period is the E. Courtney Jenkins jacket and trousers, which currently reside in the collection of the Museum of the Confederacy.  An excellent photograph of this jacket appears on pg. 67 of Confederate Ordeal, from Time-Life's The Civil War series, as well as pg. 134 of Echoes of Glory: Arms and Equipment of the Confederacy, also by Time-Life). The Jenkins jacket (with matching trousers) was made by Kent, Payne & Co., a Richmond dry goods manufacturer (Kimmel 1989). We are encouraging participants, at the very least, to get their RD-IIs trimmed for the purposes of this event.  Trim can be removed as easily as it is put on, returning the jacket to the “generic” state.  However, we would like to see as few obvious Richmond Depot pattern jackets as possible.  If a participant can get away with wearing two shirts, we would prefer that.  We are not going to turn you away if you do NOT have another uniform, but we are encouraging the folks within units who do have them to please wear them. (Note-Properly made shell jackets should have their front edge falling approximately 1.5 to 2 inches below the wearer’s navel, with the back edge falling just below the ribs. They should have wide, D-shaped sleeves, falling shoulders (not squared off), and fit high in the armpits.)

2. Frock Coats - There were several styles of single-breasted enlisted mans’ frock coats used during the Valley Campaign, and these items are encouraged. They should be made from all wool, satinette, or wool cotton jean cloth.  The breast portion of the coat should have similar dimensions to a shell jacket (i.e. the jacket/skirt seam falling just below the navel, with the skirt ending at or just above the knees). 3. Overshirts -  The so-called “battleshirt”, this item was widely used by Confederate soldiers.  It is sorely underepresented in today’s living history/reenacting realm.  The overshirt was a large, “bloomy” shirt, usually made from wool flannel, broadcloth, heavy cotton, or other durable materials.  It was worn over the cotton “undershirt”.  They would often be trimmed, sometimes in an outrageous or garish manner.  Typically they had a fold-down collar, but stand collars and collarless overshirts have also been photographed.

(Image of the 1st Alabama Volunteers showing a mixture of overshirts, military-style, and civilian clothing. Note the variation in hat styles!) Click for larger image

4. Civilian Coats -  To some extent, civilian sack coats, vests, or frock coats were likely used by Jackson's troops, (albeit not as widely as by Johnson's) and are encouraged.  In general, civilian items should conform to period styles, be made of relatively sturdy wool, wool-cotton jean cloth, satinette, or wool-linen weaves.  They should reflect the practical and “work-a-day” nature of the men who made up these regiments.  “Fancy” civilian clothes (fine broadcloth, etc.) are discouraged as they would have not lasted for any length of time in the field.

The Haymaker brothers at Antietam 140th showing commutation jacket variations (photo by Bob Szabo)

5. Trousers - We would like to urge participants to stick to Confederate style foot or civilian pattern trousers.  Guidelines for trousers are much more liberal than with other uniform parts, and here especially is where personal taste is allowed to influence attire.  Nevertheless, any and all trousers should be made of: 1.) wool/cotton jean cloth; or... 2.)  all wool twill or kersey material; or... 3.) heavy 100% cotton drill (nearly the same grade as tent canvas); all cotton jean cloth (similar to denim); or... 4.) linen/wool or linen/cotton mix. Trouser colors should be dull.  Woolens may be cadet gray, gray, blue, brown or black.  White cotton trousers should be dyed blue, to reproduce the color of indigo, the most popular dye for cotton trousers at the time and still used in modern denim jeans. Finally, trousers should not have belt loops or leg creases.  The fly and waistband should be relatively narrow (i.e. not more than 1.0 to 1.25 inches).   The front edge of the trousers should reach the navel, rising towards the rear to come up beneath the back edge of the jacket or vest.  The pockets should be side-slit or especially mule-ear (french pockets).  All trousers must have button flies.  Either tie-backs or belt backs are acceptable but belt back trousers are preferred.  Buttons should be made of either bone, pewter or black lacquered metal. Finally, it has become the habit of some “hard core” reenactors to hem/roll their trouser up very high, to “display” an expensive pair of socks.  This habit/affectation will be strongly discouraged at McDowell.

6. Shirts and Drawers - For shirts, osnaburg (a type of cotton fabric), wool flannel, cotton flannel, and cotton muslin are all acceptable.

Shirt buttons should be of period materials,  especially glass, bone, shell, not larger than 1/4" to 3/8" in diameter, and not too fancy.  Shirts can have pockets, and the soldiers usually requested the "home folks" to add a pocket or two when making them a shirt.

Period drawers are a must as they help in preventing chafing and maintenance of  cleanliness of the skin.  They should be made of cotton osnaburg or muslin, and furnished with glass buttons.  Long drawers often had ribbon ties at the ankles.  Short (summer) drawers ended just below the knee, and had no ties.

Many reenactors have taken to the style of letting their drawer legs protrude from beneath their cuffed pants leg, where they become nicely soiled and grungy looking.  However period photographs suggest that this was uncommon among the soldiers. What little evidence we have seems to indicate that they rolled their drawers up with their trouser legs.

7. Shoes and Socks - There are currently no sources for properly made knitted woolen socks (yarn diameters and knitting needle diameters are far too large in reproduction items), however, we will allow wool socks made using natural fibers and conforming generally to period patterns.  Good quality, accurate period style cotton socks are available and encouraged for use by our participants.

Shoes and boots should be made by legitimate manufacturers and conform to styles from the period.  Civilian boots, calf high boots, common shoes, and straight last brogans are all highly encouraged.  We are discouraging (but not prohibiting) the use of English import brogans (too early), especially the type with brass eyelets or a buckle closure.  We will not allow the use of canvas/leather period “sport” shoes as our Confederates would have had no access to such exotic and impractical of an item.

(Travis Haymaker (Co.K, 37th VA) wearing RD type I with a painted canvas mechanics cap, white buff belt and white webbing cartridge box sling, 1997) Click for larger image

8. Hats - We would have seen a plethora of various types of civilian-turned-military hats among the members of the 37th VA.  Broad brimmed, round or square crowned “common” hats, with slightly upturned brims seem to have been particularly popular, as were various types of caps. There has been an ongoing dispute among Confederate reenactors as to whether the kepi, forage cap (bummer) or slouch hat was most prevalent among the southern soldier.  We do know that certain units preferred specific hat types (for example, the 1st and 2nd MD. Infantry Regt.'s preferred kepis to any other type of hat).  But in general, our information on prevalence of hat types can only be inferred from the few existing photographs of Confederate regiments and P.O.W.'s.  A good example is the photograph of prisoners taken at City Point, just after the battle of Cold Harbor.  Of the 68 men whose hats can be made out, 60 are wearing some variety of slouch hat, 5 are wearing kepis, and 3 are wearing what appear to be forage caps.  So the slouch hat seem to win by a landslide. In general, we are prohibiting the use of hat brass, hat cords, harps, coontails, et cetera.  Hat brims should turn upward along the edges unless rain wet.  Needless to say, caps and hats should be well made and from an approved supplier of quality items.

9. Officers Clothing - Officers are encouraged to contact the event sponsors for specific questions regarding any items of clothing.  In general, we would encourage the use of frock coats that conform closely to the Confederate regulation.  Single breasted shell jackets will be allowed for junior line officers, but are discouraged for company commander.  Officers should wear kepis if possible (not mandatory), and the proper rank should be displayed (either collar bars or shoulder boards).

10. Note on Captured Federal Clothing - We are discouraging the use of captured Federal clothes as the Confederate forces had yet to seize enough of these items for them to be seen widely in use.  The use of captured Federal clothing and equipment would become more prevalent as the Valley Campaign moved into its second phase after the Battle of Front Royal, following McDowell.  We are especially trying to discourage the use of Federal trousers, a common habit among many confederate reenactors.

Gear:

1. Firearms - The ammunition requisitions of many Virginia units at this time suggest that the soldiers were carrying a preponderance of .69 caliber smoothbore muskets, augmented by a lesser number of rifles of varying calibers.  Some requisitions specifically state ammunition for “Mississippi Rifle”, or “Enfield Rifle-0.577 caliber”.  The smoothbore muskets were being used with “buck and ball”, “round ball” or “conical ball”.  The State of Virginia supplied a large number of flintlock conversion muskets to her troops early in the war, as well as Enfield rifles to arm the flank companies of regiments, as per the regulations.

Thus, we should see as many smoothbore muskets, and rifles (“two band”) as possible at McDowell.  We want to emphasize that we do not expect anyone to go out and buy a new gun for this event if all they have is a standard reenacting musket-rifle.  However, many reenactors have more than one gun, and if it is a choice between bringing the three-band Enfield rifle-musket, or the two-band rifle, we’d prefer the rifle!

All guns should be accompanied by a bayonet appropriate for the piece.

We would like to see all firearms and bayonets  “de-farbed”, i.e. modern makers marks removed and replaced with original type stamping, et cetera.

2. Gun Furniture - Cap box, cartridge box and bayonet sling should be by a legitimate maker, and well rendered with small, even stitching.  Leather should be black.  No Federal boxes please.  No painted canvas boxes, slings or pouches (too early in the war).  Belts should be of black leather, with cast, lead backed CS, brass frame, brass fork tongue, or steel or iron roller buckles.  No chromed buckles please!

3. Haversacks - White canvas or black painted Confederate style or homemade ticking or carpetbag haversacks are encouraged. 

4. Canteens -  Confederate style tin drum or smooth side canteens are encouraged.  Smooth side canteens may be cloth covered. IMPORTANT NOTE - for detailed information on the proper way to wear haversacks and canteens, please see Chris Graham’s excellent article at the 37th VA website.  You can reach it by clicking HERE 5. Knapsacks - knapsacks should be used at this event only to store and transport items, but should be kept generally out of sight as Jackson’s troops had been ordered to drop all their baggage in Headwaters, Virginia, well east of McDowell.  Thus we would like to see our participants using only blanket rolls of various types.  Blanket rolls should be assembled using good quality straps or stout pieces of cloth that could be easily untied and retied.  Do NOT use twine, bailing string, or multiple pieces of twine along the length of the roll (this is never seen in period illustrations).

("Jackson's Foot Cavalry" by A.C. Redwood.  Note the hat styles, types of blanket rolls and how they are tied, the canteens and other accoutrements.) Click for Larger Image

6. Blankets, Ground cloths  - Blankets should be of natural materials and good construction in period weaves and weights, with subdued colors.  Cotton quilts are discouraged (the men quickly discovered that when they got wet they became heavy, cold and useless).  Coverlets are all the rage these days, but unfortunately many, if not most, of the coverlets beings used by reenactors date from the colonial revival period in the late 19th century, and are not correct for civil war use.  As such, we discourage the use of coverlets unless the piece is of known provenance. Rubber ground cloths (the “knapsack tent” of Gilham’s manual) and painted canvas oilcloths are highly encouraged.  Rubber blankets should have small brass grommets, with a “flat” vulcanized rubber finish.

7. Side Knives - Side knives were extremely popular among early war Confederate troops, however we are going to be very picky about these items.  D-guard bowies, homemade knives, any type of side-knife must be of good quality manufacture and made to resemble the originals.  The pakistani knives (so called “Arkansas toothpicks”, “bowies”, et cetera) sold at the sutlers will not be allowed, period.  If in doubt, leave it at home.

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References
Armstrong, Richard L., 1990. The Battle of McDowell. H. E. Howard, Inc.
Armstrong, R., Personal Communication, 2001.
Ashcroft, J. M., 1988. The 31st Virginia Infantry. H. E Howard, Inc.
Franzosa, Edward S. 1988. Catalog of Uniforms, The Camp Chase Gazette  (16) 1: 24-27
Jensen, L., 1996. Johhny Reb, The uniforms of the Confederate Army, 1861-1865. Greenhill Press.
Jensen, Leslie D. 1989. A survey of the Confederate Central Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Part I. Military Collector and  Historian (41) 3:109-132
Jurgella, David. 1989. The "Richmond Depot" Jacket, The Camp Chase Gazette  (16) 10: 26- 28
Kimmel, Ross M. 1989. Enlisted Uniforms of the Maryland Confederate Infantry: A Case  Study, Part I. Military Collector and Historian (41)  3:98-122
Lowrey, T. and S. Cohen, 2000. Images of the Civil War in West Virginia. Quarrier Press.
Morton, Oren, F., 1969. A History of Highland County. Regional Publishing Company
Wingate, Dr. Isabel B. 1979. Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 6th Edition.  Fairchild Publishing Company, New York, N.Y.
Woodhead, Henry (Editor). 1991. Echoes of Glory: Arms and Equipment of the  Confederacy, Time-Life Books, Alexandria VA