Civilian Clothing Authenticity Standards & Guidelines:
(Click on photographs to see larger images)

Overview: This is an extremely rural area, far removed from any fashion centers. Most of the local population is from the yeomanry / lower middle class although there are some poorer people and a smattering of the more prosperous middle class. Dress appropriately for 'your' socioeconomic level in practical, everyday clothing. All civilian clothing must be made of period patterns and construction techniques.

Clothing Regulations: Adult Women 1. MOST should be portraying tenant or yeoman farmer families. Cotton, wool, or wool/cotton blend everyday or "work" dresses (matching bodice and skirt) in woven checks, plaids or stripes or in period prints with modest work hoops, corded petticoats or no hoop at all. Trim, if any, should generally be minimal and understated. 2. Cotton dresses should preferably be gathered bodiced, although fitted cotton bodices are allowed. (They aren't incorrect per se but they are badly overrepresented relative to their use during the War). NO pagoda sleeves in cotton dresses. Preferred sleeves styles are bishop, coat and "balloon" (one piece variation on coat sleeves which is the most common in cotton "work dresses") . 2. Solid colored cotton dresses were comparatively rare and are discouraged unless you are very poor and have over-dyed an older print dress. Wool dresses were frequently solid colored and are encouraged. Wool dresses may also be in challis-type prints or woven stripes, checks and plaids. 3. Bodices and skirt must be of the same material unless you are destitute when you may have a mismatched bodice and skirt. However, as the blockade hadn't yet had a major impact on women's clothing, this look is to be discouraged this early in the War. 3. ABSOLUTELY no blouse/skirt or blouse/skirt/jacket combinations for any age (if you don't know the difference between a bodice and a blouse, ask before the event). Correct aprons (either pinner or half apron styles) and correct underpinnings are highly recommended. No visible modern underpinnings are allowed (e.g. wear drawers if you wear a hoop!) Unless you are portraying an extremely poor person, a either a corset or working stays are required. If you do not wear a corset or stays, you may NOT wear a modern bra. 4. Outerwear (shawls, capes, mantles and coats) should be practical and of appropriate material and construction. It is particularly encouraged as it can get cold in this part of Virginia in May and because most women wore something of this nature when outside the home. 5. Period reproduction shoes and boots of leather or homemade substitutes, or reasonable facsimilies thereof (no "speed laces", thick rubber soles other other telltale signs of modern footwear) 6. Appropriate headgear: bonnets, slat bonnets, corded sunbonnets, quilted bonnets, knitted hoods. No ladies "day caps" out of doors except on older women (e.g. 55 and over). Avoid dressy fashion bonnets, opting instead for a practical, modest straw for Sundays (if appropriate to your impression) and less formal bonnets (slat, corded, quilted, knit, etc) for everyday. NO hats are allowed on women over 25 and they are actively discouraged on all but very young children as it was a high fashion / resort look. 7. Correct period hairstyle- center part, no bangs, hair confined at or below the nape of the neck. Hair nets, if worn, must be of correct materials and worn appropriately. No reenactor "snoods". 8. Period eyeglasses or modern contact lenses are permitted. Any jewelry and accessories should be in keeping with your socioeconomic level and situation - simple or none at all. If you're wearing a white collar with your dress rather than a neckerchief, you should wear a brooch of appropriate period type unless you are young enough to get away with a bow at the neck instead. AVOID: cameos with obviously modern looking subjects, such as the ubiquitous "ponytail gal". Good low cost options include: rolled gold or "pinchbeck" hollowware, gutta percha, bog oak, goldstone, agate and "French jet" glass. 9. Unless there is a scenario-related reason for not protecting the neckline of your dress, please wear either a white collar with your dress or, if portraying a working class person or someone going about farm chores, a neckerchief. Neckerchiefs are underrepresented in reenactor "working impressions" and particularly encouraged. While there are some period images of women in high necked dresses without collars or neckerchiefs, it was unusual and we are seeking to portray the norm. 10. PROHIBITED: visible make-up; modern hairstyles, bangs, or loose hair; painted fingernails; sweatpants; nylons or visible socks; white blouses; blouse/skirt or blouse/skirt/jacket combinations; modern eyeglasses; sunglasses of any kind; zippers; Velcro; zippers; plastic buttons or jewelry; wristwatches; obviously synthetic fabrics, stud or post earrings. No military issue items unless you have a specific scenario-related reason for having them. No overtly upper class or urban "fashion plate" clothing such as Garibaldi blouses, Zouave jackets, fancy silk dresses, large hoops, etc. unlikely to be found in remote rural areas, even if otherwise period-correct.

Well-known Civil War era image by Timothy O'Sullivan of Virginia civilians of middling economic status outside their cabin, near Cedar Mountain. (from the Library of Congress American Memory website) Slat or corded bonnets are preferred. Detail from famous photograph of Shenandoah Valley farm family, refugeeing to get out of the pathway of war, National Archives. Click to see full image, which also includes excellent examples of men's and children's clothing and men's hats. Gathered bodices are preferred in cotton dresses as there are few surviving war era examples of fitted bodiced cottons. However, fitted bodices are allowed as they are not incorrect, just over-represented. Detail from CDV in Juanita Leisch's collection, reprinted from Who Wore What with the author's permission. Note that the sitter is wearing a white collar and brooch, even with a modest everyday dress. Example of a period correct apron and an overall great impression. (Colleen Formby, McDowell 2001). Ferrotype by Bob Szabo.

Adult Male Civilian Clothing Regulations 1. MOST civilian men should be portraying tenant or yeoman farmers. These men generally should be in sacks coats, worn with a waistcoat (vests) and trousers, probably unmatched rather than a "suit of dittoes". Clothing should be in period materials appropriate to the garment type and your socioeconomic level -- e.g. wool, linen, or period blends such as jean cloth or linsey. Particularly suitable weaves for sackcoats include broadcloth, cassimere, satinette and kersey. 2. A small percentage of frock coats might be acceptable, depending on your impression (e.g. doctors, preachers, wealthier landowners). Overshirts, smocks, shop aprons and other "occupational" clothing is underrepresented and encouraged if appropriate to your impression. 3. Outerwear (men's shawls, capes or coats) is encouraged as it may be appropriate for your impression but must be of period construction and materials. 4. Buttons should be of period materials: shell, glass, china or bone buttons on shirts; bone or tin buttons on trowsers; 1851 patent hard rubber, cloth or "coin" type metal buttons on coats, depending on the coat type. 5. Shirts should be made of cotton, wool or appropriate blends, in either woven checks or stripes, or appropriate cotton prints, or solid colors (e.g. white "boiled" shirts for Sunday or the wealthier). Overshirts may be made of wool flannel. 6. Suspenders must be of correct construction (e.g. no "Y" backs) Neckwear must be of appropriate materials. If tied, it must be tied correctly. "Cheater" ties did exist in the era and documented styles of these are encouraged. 7. Socks should be period-appropiate, and of cotton or wool. Correct underclothing is recommended and no visible modern underwear is allowed.

(click for larger image) (A view in Grafton, Virginia (now West Virginia) in 1860 looking past the rail depot towards the town hotel.  Note the hat and clothing styles.  Photograph from "Images of West Virginia in the Civil War, Lowry and Cohen, Quarrier Press, 2000.") Adult men should wear waistcoats (vests) . Note the straight line across the bottom rather than the later, period incorrect pointed style of vest. Detail from CDV in Juanita Leisch's Who Wore What, reprinted with permission of the author.

8. Men's shirts, particularly white ("boiled) shirts were considered underwear in the era. Adult men should not appear in public in their shirtleeves without either a waistcoat (vest) or overshirt / smock of some kind. Waistcoats should be of a period appropriate pattern, e.g. flat along the bottom rather than the later and modern pointed style, and made of a material appropriate to the era and to a rural impression (e.g . no fancy silk brocades) 9. Period reproduction boots, bootees or shoes, of leather or homemade substitutes. No bare feet. 10. Properly blocked hats or period caps should be worn outdoors. No floppy "hillbilly hats". 11. Pocket watches are permitted if suitable to impression. No wristwatches. If needed, wear period eyeglasses or modern contact lenses. 12. Correct period hairstyles and facial hair (if worn). 13. PROHIBITED: Modern socks; fancy embroidered vests; modern eyeglasses or sunglasses; zippers; Velcro; plastic buttons; wristwatches; earrings; John Wayne-type bandannas (1880s!), obvious synthetic fabrics.

Youth and Child Clothing Guidelines 1. As noted for adults with modifications appropriate to age. For example: boat necklines, short sleeves, and calf length skirts are appropriate for girls; short trousers and shirtsleeves for pre-teen boys (waistcoats for older boys encouraged but not required). Dresses are correct for toddlers of both sexes. 2. Because this is a conservative farming area, very high fashion clothing should be avoided for children as for adults. 3. While children's' clothing may show a military influence, complete child-sized uniforms and accoutrements are prohibited. 4. Boys should have their hair parted on the side and girls should have their parted in the middle. 5. Keep modern infant accessories (i.e. diapers, baby bottles) kept out of sight. No modern toys. 5. We realize that exact period reproduction shoes for children can be a huge expense as they are so quickly outgrown. If reproduction footwear for children is not possible economically, they should at least be wearing style which are a good approximation of period styles -- e.g. lace up or elastic gusseted shoes or boots with either square or round toes, with no obviously modern features. Examples of everyday children's clothing. CDV from the collection of Terri Conley Adams, used with permission. The little person in the dress is a BOY. Note the hair parted on the side. CDV from the collection of Terri Conley Adams, used with permission.

Sketch by CW era artist J.E. Taylor of Virginia wartime youngsters entitled, "In Embryo- A bunch of unfledged Johnnies at Duffield Station". "Town boys" - excellent impression based on the above sketch.